sábado, 27 de diciembre de 2008

Vinos para sorprender en Navidades de crisis

Emulando a bloggeros de mayor prestigio, vamos a recomendar una serie de vinos para estas fiestas siguiendo la máxima de esta plataforma, y pese a que la tendencia generalizada es la de tirar la casa por la ventana.


Creo que puede estar justificado gastarse más de veinte o treinta euros en un vino (y de ahí a las posibilidades de cada uno) si se sabe qué es lo que se busca, pero en otras ocasiones la gente acomete gastos iguales o mayores a ciegas, en la creencia de que por ser caro va a ser bueno y le va a gustar más, y en este caso las posibilidades de decepción son directamente proporcionales a la inexperiencia del comprador.


No pretendo aquí dar ninguna verdad absoluta, pues tampoco tengo la categoría para hacerlo, sino simplemente señalar algunos vinos que por diferentes razones me han sorprendido, a precios muy ajustados, que aportarán una nota distinguida sin tener que hacer ningún gran desembolso. Decir por último que para hacer esta selección hemos tenido que topar también con auténticas bazofias que también son muy frecuentes en estas gamas de precio. Y como prefiero destacar lo bueno, propongo lo siguiente:



Pazo de Mariñan 2007. Adegas Tapias de Mariñan. Se trata de una nueva bodega de la pequeña D.O. Monterrei, saliente de una cooperativa y que ha optado por grandes producciones sin renunciar a la calidad, lo que permite vender a precios ajustados. Este coupage de Godello y Treixadura ronda los 4 euros. Es ligero, fresco, con aromas de frutas de hueso de media intensidad, cuerpo algo graso y baja , pero presente, acidez. Ideal para acompañar un salmón ahumado.





Anselmann Weissburgunder 2006. Weingut Anselmann. Interesante monovarietal de Pinot Blanc elaborado en una potente y conocida bodega alemana. Puede encontrarse por unos 9 euros. Complejo, con aromas de intensidad media-alta. Frutas tropicales, melon y algo de pera. Ligerisimo carbónico que va desapareciendo. Boca agradable y persistente. Perfecto para carnes blancas.




Al Muvedre 2007. Cía. de vinos Telmo Rodriguez. D.O. Alicante. Tinto joven elaborado únicamente con uva monastrell. Como la mayoría de los vinos de Telmo, garantía de calidad a un precio excelente (sobre los 4,5 euros). Aromas típicos de la variedad unido a inexplicables notas de madera (no ha pasado por ninguna). Para beber fresquito (14º) va bien con embutidos y estupendo con moluscos, en serio.




Bastión de la Luna. Tinto 2006. Bod. Forjas del Salnés. D.O. Rias Baixas. Coupage de caiño y loureiro que elabora Rodrigo Méndez a la sombra de los Goliardos pero con el mismo mimo. Predominan los aromas de la caiño pero atemperados por la loureiro, haciendo un vino muy agradable y facil de beber. Quizás es más comercial que sus hermanos mayores. A cuántas grandes bodegas les gustaría tener como buque insignia a esta inmerecida "segunda gama". Una auténtica joya. Si lo encuentras no lo dejes escapar.




Gran Bohedal Crianza 2003. Bodegas Heredad Baños Bezares. DOC Rioja. Se trata de un auténtico Château familiar que embotella única y exclusivamente las uvas de los viñedos propios en torno a la bodega. El resultado es un rioja clásico con notas de modernidad presentes en la intensidad frutal de sus aromas y en su boca equilibrada y persistente. El precio en bodega era de 5 euros. No se puede dar más por menos.



Vi de Gel Riesling-Muscat 2007. Bod. Gramona. D.O. Penedés. Vino que me ha sorprendido recientemente tanto por su espectacular botella, como por su contenido. Agradables aromas a cítricos escarchados y florales. Pese a tratarse de un dulce proporcionado por la vendimia tardía y el corte de la fermentación por congelación, la riesling le proporciona una acidez que hace que el trago no sea para nada empalagoso. Sobre 13 euros es la opción mas cara de los comentados, pero vale la pena. Ideal con foie o para limpiarnos la boca de todos los grasos dulces navideños (desde luego siempre mejor que un cava).



Lo que nos lleva a la necesidad de recomendar un espumoso, y lo hago porque así lo impone la tradición, ya que a mí me gusta tomarlos de aperitivo o con un menú ligero, incluso con determinados quesos, pero lo más alejado posible de una comida copiosa como las que en estas fechas se imponen, pues sabe peor y encima sienta como un tiro. Pero como hay que brindar con algo recomendaré uno que no dé pena estropear a base de polvorones y peladillas.


Palacio de Bornos Brut Nature. Bodegas de Crianza de Castilla la Vieja. D.O. Rueda. Recién adquirida por la navarra Señorío de Sarriá, esta bodega viene elaborando, desde hace ya bastantes años, este serio y demandado espumoso. Aromas de frutas de hueso y anís típicos de la verdejo en combinacion con las notas avellanas y pasteleria de la crianza. Burbuja fina, acidez y cierto amargor final para enfrentarse al turrón con solvencia. En bodega se vende a unos 7 euros.

Y hasta aquí mi propuesta. Disfrutad de las fiestas.

130 comentarios:

pedro dijo...

Mario!! solo puedo opinar del Bastión, después de la cena de ayer ya me convenció, buenisimo! ya te dire mis sensaciones que como no tengo ni idea igual pongo aqui una barbaridad,pero la verdad es que me convenció más que en casa de Gonzalo,no se si sería por no tomar antes el blanco, o que, pero e gusto mucho tio, un vinazo!

Mariano dijo...

Me alegro de que te vayas animando con los tintos. A mí desde luego me parece muy bueno, el mejor de los que comento aquí, y válido para carnes, pescados y para tomárselo sólo, o mejor con amigos.

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Mariano dijo...

Gracias a tí. Es un honor tenerte por aquí.

Y, por cierto, feliz cumpleaños.

Matoses dijo...

Mariano,
Lo dicho: Enhorabuena y que la fuerza te acompañe.

Matoses dijo...

Mariano,
Un consejillo: Para facilitar los comentarios suprime la "verificación de la palabra".

Mariano dijo...

Matoses,

Muchas gracias y oido cocina con tu consejo.

He quitado la verificacion de palabra. Si me empieza a llegar spam la vuelvo a poner.

pedro dijo...

Mario, hoy leo en la prensa un síntoma inequívoco de la crisis, el consumo de vino embotellado de crianzas y demás, baja un 20% en 2008, con el correlativo aunmento del 20% del consumo de vino Don Simón y demas bricks,esto sin duda corrobora tu máxima sobre el buen gusto y la pela!Pero bueno ya lo dijo el Pingüi en su disco Piromanía: "Creo que me voya dar al Don Simón.."

Mariano dijo...

Eso me recuerda que hay que seguir votando para que el Pingüino vaya a Eurovisión.

Todos a votar!!!

encantadisimo dijo...

Loable iniciativa, la aplaudo;-).

JAC dijo...

Mariano,

Gran iniciativa especialmente en momentos como este y suscribo lo que comentas en tu declaración de principios de este blog.

Un ejemplo de creatividad gastronómica (entre otros muchos mensajes) es la película Estómago; cómo ennoblecer hasta limites insospechados un rancho carcelario.

Pacorro dijo...

Hola. Me gustó mucho el Goliardo pero no sabía que también hiciesen ese Bastión, que tiene una pinta buenísima, ¿Sabes donde se puede comprar y a qué precio?

Isabel dijo...

Muy feliz año Don Mariano!

Gran post, si señor! Me apunto el espumoso, ya sabes que en ciertos temas soy muy limitada!
Por cierto sigues soñando con lo del pingüino?? Angelico!

Lamentó el desliz del vino blanco/ tinto. No volverá a pasar ;)
Besos

P.D.- quien es? El que? Cuentamelo todo! No hagas sufrir a mi mente perversa!

Mariano dijo...

Isabel,

Sé que lo del pingüino está complicado, sobre todo sin el apoyo de Buenafuente, pero bueno la esperanza...

Besos

Mariano dijo...

Pacorro,

A mi me lo regalaron y no sé que precio tiene (aunque evidentemente mucho menor que el Goliardo).
Unicamente se comercializa en Galicia y la distribuidora que lo lleva es Maria Fechoría y Asociados (670586444).

Saludos,

Nichi dijo...

Primero Feliz Año a Todos

Comentarte que en estas fechas he podido disfrutar de diferentes tipos de vinos y para mi sorpresa hubo un blanco que me encantó ( como ya comenté en otra ocasión yo soy mas de vinos tintos que de blancos) así que os aconsejo que si tenéis la posibilidad de probar el Pedralonga (Albariño – 2006) no lo dudéis porque está muy bueno
En cuanto al tinto, de todos los que he probado últimamente recomiendo el Roda (Rioja - 2002), no es de los más económicos pero os prometo que merece la pena y un caprichito siempre nos lo merecemos

Un saludo y hasta pronto

Mariano dijo...

Feliz año a tí también.

Comentas dos estupendas opciones. De Pedralonga, albariño de cultivo biodinámico, yo probé hace unos meses la añada 2005 y me pareció muy interesante, todavía mucho perfume y acidez, incluso aun con tiempo por delante. Creo que andaba sobre los 10-12 euros.
En cuanto a Roda es un muy buen ejemplo de Rioja de corte moderno en el mítico Barrio de la Estación de Haro, intenso y frutal pero con una relación calidad-precio que me parece un pelín desajustada. Este Roda II (que precisamente en 2002 pasó a llamarse simplemente Roda) se vende a unos 20 euros y es la gama básica, después tienes Roda I por cerca de 30 euros y Cirsión (la estrella) por más de 100. Como bien dices, un caprichito para Riojofilos con inquietudes (perdón por el palabro).

Anónimo dijo...

Pues para variar, hablaré de los vinos que me decepcionaron en Navidades: Madai 2006(No me dijo nada, claramente sobrevalorado), Pesquera Crianza 2006(Frutilla simplona y nada más. ni rastro de madera. Facilmente desdeñable. Otro fiasco de la Ribera del Duero); Lusco 2006(Nariz de intensidad ultrabaja y con una acidez exagerada que taladra el estómago). No volveré a probarlos nunca.

Mariano dijo...

Anónimo,

El Madai no lo he probado y no puedo opinar. En cuanto a Pesquera no es Santo de mi devoción, aunque tiene sus adeptos. De Alejandro Fernández, si tengo que elegir, me quedo con Dehesa La Granja (que además es más barato).
Siento no coincidir contigo en el Lusco, sí es cierto que no tiene que ver con esos Albariños perfumados a los que últimamente estamos acostumbrados, pero por esa misma razón tiene la ventaja de ser mucho más facil de maridar con un pescado delicado (tipo rodaballo) sin anularlo con todo ese perfume. Yo incluso le daría otra oportunidad con un cochinillo, en serio, su grasa con toda esa acidez va de miedo y además te limpia la boca. Así fue la última vez que lo probé y me sorprendió mucho.

Saludos,

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